I agin like a product like Dupont Straight Flash. After correct flange nailing and jamb anchoring which helps by the way to have the outside guy give proper jamb adjusting tension before he starts going nuts on the flange anchors, you then are pretty much set for proper flange taping. With the new window frame out I like to inject a nice bead of low-expansion spray foam so I can set the window into a wet bed of foam. After flashing the sill with something like Dupont Tyvek Flex Sill we will dry fit the first couple of windows without the sashes in so we can test the fit for shimming and squaring. With sheet rock new blades in utility knife are a good idea.
I keep cordless multi-oscillating tools with good blades for the corner cuts on the stool and generally make the longer rips with a 6. It's nice to have helpers with good shop vacs with new filters to keep the dust done in the house. The cut back is around 5/16" give or take 1/8". I've found that since the new construction replacement windows like the Imperial LS has the standard 3.25" thick frame with a different flange offset than that of builder's grade single new construction low-end vinyl, one does have to perform a cut back to either the sheet rock or wood jamb extensions and stool.
I've been utilizing the Imperial LS by Soft-Lite Windows for these types of installs with great success. I like to install the same sized unit with a welded integral fin without a built in "J" in your case. I would carefully remove the existing siding around those openings and redo the Tvek/house wrap with matching manufacturing tape as needed.
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